2010年7月27日星期二
Watch Glossary and Terms with Images
This international standard is the basis of civil time. It is derived from International Atomic Time (TAI), itself based on the atomic definition of the second and measured using a series of atomic clocks.V ImagesVagues de GenèveSynonym of Côtes de Genève. A decoration of undulating lines, like waves, frequently used to embellish superior quality movements.VaneUses air friction to slow a moving part, for example the arm on a gravity escapement.VermeilSilver covered with a thin layer of gold.VibrationMovement of a pendulum or oscillating body between two extreme positions (A; and A;;). The balance of a mechanical watch generally mak.It consists of a mobile carriage or cage carrying all the parts of the escapement, with the balance in the centre. The escape pinion turns about the fixed fourth wheel. The case makes one revolution per minute, thus annulling errors of rate in the vertical positions.Triple date calendarComplication that provides month, day and date.Tuning-forkA two-pronged metal instrument mounted with quartz crystals. An electromagnet maintains the crystals; vibrations. These vibrations activate a pawl which advances the drive wheel, one tooth at a time.U ImagesUnder-dial workCollective term for the mechanisms, such as for striking, a calendar or motion work, between the dial and the dial plate.Universal (watch with universal hours)A watch whose dial shows the time of places in different time zones.Universal Time (UT)Since 1972, a continuation of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) which is mean solar time at the Greenwich meridian. Universal Time (UT) is a measurement of time based on the Earth;s rotation. It is therefore influenced by its irregularities due, among other factors, to the tides produced by the Sun and Moon. There are several Universal Times, one of the most important being Coordinated Universal Time (UTC).
Watch Glossary and Terms with Images
Tempering increases mechanical resistance by reducing the brittleness induced by quenching.TerminageFrench term denoting the process of assembling watch parts for the account of a producer.TermineurFrench term for an independent watchmaker (or workshop) engaged in assembling watches, either wholly or in part, for the account of an "établisseur" or a "manufacture", who supply the necessary loose parts.Time zoneIn order to standardise time measurement in each country, since 1883 the Earth has been divided into twenty-four time zones, the first of which is intersected by the Greenwich meridian, which is the prime or zero meridian. Each point within a given time zone has the same legal time.TimerInstrument used for registering intervals of time (durations, brief times), without any indication of the time of day.ToothA projection on the edge of a gear, escapement wheel, ratchet wheel, etc.TourbillonDevice invented to eliminate errors of rate in the vertical positions.A technology that uses quartz crystal oscillators working with an integrated circuit, assuring up to 10 times more accuracy than a conventional quartz watch.T ImagesTachometerInstrument for measuring speed. In watch***, a timer or chronograph with a graduated dial on which speed can be read off in kilometres per hour or some other unit (see timer).TelemeterStopwatch or chronograph function with a scale that measures the distance of something from the wearer of the watch through the amount of time it takes sound to travel.TemperHeat treatment after quenching whereby metal is heated then slowly cooled.
Watch Glossary and Terms with Images
A fine stone is a mineral having the same properties as a precious stone though to a lesser degree. The main fine stones are topaz, spinel, tourmaline, garnet and quartz (rock crystal, agate, amethyst).StopwatchTimekeeping instrument which can be used for measuring intervals of time. When this is done, the time display is partly or wholly lost until the hands are reset.Striking-work, Striking-MechanismIn a watch or clock, automatic or hand-operated mechanism that strikes the hours, etc, or rings an alarm-bell (v. repeater).Super accurateA watch that is accurate to +/- 10 seconds per year.A *** calendar does not automatically take months with less than 31 days into account, or leap years, and must therefore be adjusted five times a year.SkeletonSkeleton watch: watch in which the case and various parts of the movement are of transparent material, enabling the main parts of the watch to be seen.Step motorAn electric motor in which at least one part moves as a series of steps. Also known as a Lavet motor after its inventor Marius Lavet, the step motor equips the majority of quartz watches. StoneIn watch***, a precious stone used as a bearing, endstone or pallet-stone, known internationally as jewels. The majority of stones (jewels) used in watches today are synthetic. Their role is to minimise friction.A precious stone is a hard and rare crystalline mineral, used in jewellery and for certain parts of precision instruments such as watches, clocks, and compasses. The four precious stones are the diamond, ruby, sapphire (both corundums) and emerald (beryl).
Watch Glossary and Terms with Images
After the Second World War, atomic clocks became so accurate that they could demonstrate the infinitesimal irregularities (a few hundreths of a second per year) of the Earth's rotation about its own axis. It was then decided to redefine the reference standard; this was done by the 13th General Conference on Weights and Measures in 1967, in the following terms: "The second is the duration of 9,192,631,770 periods of the radiation corresponding to the transition between the two hyperfine levels of the fundamental state of the atom of caesium 133". Conventionally, the second is subdivised into tenths, hundredths, thousendths (milliseconds), millionths (microseconds), thousand-millionths (nanoseconds) and billionths (picoseconds).Secret springA spring that releases the cover on a hunter watch case.Setting (to time)Process of bringing the hands of a watch or clock to the position corresponding to the exact time.Shock AbsorberResilient bearing which, in a watch, is intended to take up the shocks received by the balance staff and thus protects its delicate pivots from damage.Simple calendar (watch)Watches that show the date, i.e. the number, in order, of each day in the month. Certain *** calendars also display the names of the months.Drilled and polished, they are used as bearings for the different pivots to minimize friction and wear. As a general rule, a *** mechanical watch, i.e. one that indicates hours, minutes and seconds, should have at least fifteen jewels at the points most exposed to friction.S ImagesSafety rollerIn a lever escapement, a disc which limits the fork;s movement.SecondBasic unit of time (abbr. s or sec), corresponding to one 86,000th part of the mean solar day, i.e. the duration of rotation, about its own axis, of an ideal Earth describing a circle round the Sun in one year, at a constant speed and in the plane of the Equator.
2010年7月13日星期二
The Citizen Promaster PMT56
This is Citizen's solar power technology. The face of the watch is a solar cell with a subtle hexagonal patternthat also serves to add visual detail to the dial. The battery onthis one is good for five years, so even if you forget it in a drawer,you're unlikely to need to reset it!200m water resistant (about 650 feet). Several people use this watch for SCUBAdiving; it's more than enough for any use you're likely to have.Travel friendly. Unlike most bags for gift, you can change thehour without stopping the watch. This is fantastic when traveling. Youpull out the crown, press the button while rotating the stem, and the houradvances. I used this when going from the west coast to SouthAmerica, and I can testify to its usefulness. With other my chinese giftes,more than once I've set the local time wrong due to jet lag haze. Alsonice for accuracy fans, since the seconds and minutes are not affected.Power saving modes. This adds some personality to the watch, and makes itfun to interact with. After a minute or two of darkness, the secondhand stops at 12 and stays there until light returns. Meanwhile,the minute and hour hands continue to display the correct time.One unfortunate fact of life for those of use who like Japanese bags gift online is that the most interesting models are often only sold inJapan. There are internet resellers of Japanese models, butyou've then got warranty difficulties if service is ever required, as thedomestic service centers will require you to ship the watch back toJapan.I bring this up because of the wonderful Citizen PMT56-2711 from the Promasterline. This particular watch is no longer in production (though it's still available here and there if you look hard enough), and has beensuperseded by models adding radio synchronization and such (like the new Citizen Attesa). It's ananalog quartz watch, solar-powered, with a blue face and titaniumcase, and there's something very elegant in its simplicity.Things I like about this watch:Su***ce-hardened titanium case and band, trade name "Duratect".Almost impossible to scratch, and with the brushed finish, it yields asubtle, low-key metal that's quite attractive.Domed sapphire crystal. Again, almost impossible to scratch. Theinterior has an anti-glare coating, which reduces reflections. Thedoming also reduces reflections and makes it easier to read under water.Perpetual calendar. Although this makes for an involved settingprocedure, it's nice not to have to worry about resetting the date at the end of some months.Eco-Drive.
Review of the Casio Edifice EQW
In my opinion, this watches gift represents Casio's competition to the Oceanus models. It's got a very similar feature set and a list price of $450. What sets it apart immediately is the striking two-level dial. As you can see, the lower left portion is about 3mm lower than the rest, showing an asymmetric 24-hour dial that mostly looks cool. It also resembles the structure of a balance wheel in a mechanical watch, which I suspect was deliberate. The upper dial level is translucent, showing a bit of the under-structure, and the overall effect is pleasant and intriguing. There are several design touches around the dial to note: the applied hour markers at 2, 4, 8 and 10 o'clock that resemble slotted screw heads, the nice even PVD finish on the contrasting bezel, the unusual use of a marker-on-dial for the indicator at 10 o'clock, and the deeply inset 24-hour dial at 2 o'clock. A lot of thought and effort went into how the bell & ross watches presents, which is something you'll appreciate as you wear it long-term.In terms of function, this Casio is, as you'd expect, a laundry list of awesome. No one does quartz like Casio, Citizen, and Seiko -- as of this posting there isn't another manufacture that has radio-reception, solar and multi-motor analog. The triple play of solar, atomic, and quartz means that you never have to change the battery, never have to set the time, and never have to sweat when daylight savings takes effect.Today's review is of the Casio Edifice EQW-M1000DB-1ACR, introduced at Basel 2009. It's a multifunction analog quartz bags gift with an unusual dial.Specifications:Six-band atomic set (Japan, US, UK, Germany and China - state of the art).Tough solar power. This is Casio's G-Shock technology, meaning its shock-resistant solar power with a rechargeable battery. Five motors driving the various hands and dials.World time (29 cities, as seen around the chapter ring). Daily alarm.1/20th of a second stopwatch.Countdown timer.PVD-plated tachemeter bezel.Stainless steel case, and solid-link bracelet with push release.Mineral crystal.Keep reading for the rest of the review and pictures.
Citizen BJ8040
The Citizen Ecozilla (a nickname that combines the Eco-Drive name with an accurate poke at the watches gargantuan size) is a modern tool diver. Tool dive watches are not flashy, tech laden, or in any way concerned with the standard conventions of watch design. Tool divers are only concerned with being uncompromised dive watches. Citizen has created something of a frankenstein (in a good way) with this watch, mixing their highly successful Eco-Drive technology with the classic styling and build of a tool dive watch. The Ecozilla contrasts its large and unwieldy case with ultra light titanium, which makes the watch much more wearable then its looks alone would convey. I have to admit that I was not a fan of this watch from the moment I received it; it felt too big, clunky, and awkward (both physically and esthetically). That said, after giving the watch a few full days on my wrist, it grew on me in a profound way. I want to resist any hyperbole when describing the size of the case. It is HUGE. It sits high on your wrist and if you have scrawny wrists like me, you will quickly get used to people commenting on the size of your web chanel watches. (See the included video and photos for a better view of the Ecozilla's profile.) Putting the size aside, the fit and finish of the Ecozilla is great, and exactly in line with what we have come to expect from Citizen watches. The screw down crown is arguably the best I have ever used on a quartz chanel watches online . The tactile gnarled finish on the crown is matched with excellent threading and smooth action when screwing or unscrewing.Today, we bring you a treat. The beast in the flesh, the internet forum darling, the Citizen Ecozilla. The model for review is the BJ8040-01E, a large dive watch that makes you feel like an old-school diver from the minute it is strapped to your wrist. Lets review the stats:Dive bell & ross rated to 300 meters (almost 1,000 feet).Titanium case.6mm thick mineral crystal.Helium release valve.Uni-directional dive time bezel.180 day power reserve.Citizen Eco-Drive solar quartz movement.Movement caliber: B873.46mm wide and 18mm thick.MSRP: $595.
Review of the Phosphor P
It also has glyphs for PM and "alarm on." Functions include time mode, date display, alarm, and hour-circle mode. Seen above, this last one is the most striking, displaying hours as a notch in a ring with minutes below them. Striking, easy to read from across the room, and generally quite functional. As with every other e-ink watch, once a minute the entire display redraws itself in inverse, a dramatic and sometimes distracting display as the whole face redraws in white or black before adding the mode display. People will notice when you wear these! The P-0201 review unit is the version on a rubber strap. It's 24mm, non-tapering, dual-tang-buckle, and very comfortable. On the inside of the strap, the Phosphor name is printed: a decent way to provide grip and texture. On my 7.5" wrist, the curvature of the ceramic chanel is functional, low-profile, and sleek. The case has hooded lugs and straight spring bars which make for an integrated look I quite like. The sides of the case are polished, and the top brushed which is attractive without causing too many specular reflections.As mentioned in the previous Phosphor review, we also received two of their newest curved e-ink models: the P-0302 and P-0201. (The picture to the right is the 0201.) With these chanel online, Phosphor has embraced the capabilities that differentiate e-ink from previous technology, creating curved displays previously impossible. While they differ slightly in function and even more in style, the two are quite similar in many ways, and the choice between them is mostly one of size and style.Specs in common between the two:38mm wide by 8mm thick case.Waterproof to 50m (160ft).Stainless steel case, mineral crystal.Both are available with rubber, leather, or bracelets.User-replaceable CR2032 batteries.Toggle-able white-on-black and black-on-white display in all modes.The P-0201 is described as "Digital Hour Clock Watch," and the P-0302 is listed as "Digital Calendar chanel ceramic." These are pretty accurate in describing their style differences. The 0201 is all about the time, with the numeric or nouveau hour-circle display of the current time.
Citizen BM6400
The main visual difference is the addition of an arrowhead hour hand. The reduced price is due to loss of features:Stainless steel instead of titanium.Mineral crystal instead of sapphire.Normal vs perpetual calendar.On the plus side, it should be easier to set (an analog-only perpetual calendar can easily take 15 minutes to configure) and at the price is unbeatable. Even if you add the bracelet, it's under $200.I think this is a killer eramics chanel for those pragmatic types who "just want a watch." It'll take a beating, be readable at night, never need batteries, and be readable at a glance. In rolex for online terminology, this is a 'beater,' meaning the watch you wear when you don't want to worry about your more expensive pieces. I'm thinking we need to get one of these for a full review and comparison.One of the web rolex for you that's really held it's appeal to me is the Citizen PMT56-2711. Unfortunately, it's out of production and hard to find, so when a reader recently asked me for alternatives, I wasn't able to help. Since then, I've found the Citizen BM6400-00E. There's also a version with a bracelet, the BM6400-51E, although that doesn't seem to be sold in the US. Specifications:Water resistant to 200m (660ft).40mm by 11mm. Anti-reflective mineral crystal.Stainless steel case.Screw-down crown.Screwed caseback.Blue lume.E711 Eco-Drive quartz movement.Canvas strap (the bracelet is available from Citizen parts for $65 or so, part number 59-S02596).Best of all, a list price of $195, and a street price of $120!More information after the break.As you can see from the picture, it looks a lot like the PMT56 -- case shape, dial, crown, bezel.
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